Frutillar - Puerto Octay

Leg Distance: 32.92 km

Leg Time: 2:30:54

Total Distance: 66.89km

Today, as you will have noticed from the time, was a fair bit tougher, largely down to the road out of Frutillar (I didn't even attempt it) and the last 5km into Puerto Octay; a series of impossibly steep hills which eventually got the better of me and I found myself ending the leg as I't started it - pushing the bike, not an easy task given that my thigs locked into cramp as soon as I stepped off the bike. The downhills, however, were a great opportunity to try and determine my terminal velocity, and although I had to brake I managed to reach a heady 59.1km/h, but I reckon I could break 65km/h given a long enough hill.

I realised yesterday that I should really stop going on about myself and actually describe the places I'm going through. Part of the reason I haven't is that but for the view of the lake and the Osorno volcano, both Puerto Varas and Frutillar are pretty unremakable. Both are old German settler towns and popular tourist spots, nay traps, for Chileans and gringos alike.

Much is made of the German influence in both towns (more for the tourists' benefit than the locals' cultural identity, I suspect), and nowhere more than in the Kuchen. Kuchen are German cakes or pastries and in Frutillar particularly, you cannot walk two steps without seeing a place that sells them: Supermarkets, bars, craft shops, bookshops, petrol stations... All have a refigerated display cabin offering three or four different varieties. One can only wonder whether the local brothel offers patrons a line in German pastries following (or indeed, during) the consummation of the more traditional business transaction. Even the landlady at the hostal where I stayed served up a huge slice of the stuff as part of my breakfast. At least I think it was a hostal.

Sadly, my one night in Frutillar was not a peaceful one as I was twice woken up by an air raid siren. My first thought was that either the town had run out of Kuchen and martial law had been implemented; or they were taking the German experience beyond the realms of good taste. Luckily it was neither: apparently forest fires had raged through the night

Happy in the knowledge that the town was well stocked with Kuchen, I rode off in a thin smoky haze. And it will probably be a while before I use the Trangia again, too.

PS: Sorry there hasn't been much activity on the photo front, haven't had a chance to download them.

And still no saddle sores, but the northwest region of my left butt-cheek was a bit tender on the bike today, so (metaphorically) watch this space! And apologies also for the formatting being all over the shop, combination of old computer and the blogger composer having been designed by a retard.